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Introduction To Greek Food

POSTED: 2:56 pm EDT August 12, 2004

With the Olympics beginning, Greek food is on the minds and menus of many stateside party planners who want to celebrate the birthplace of the Games.

Greek food draws from one of the oldest culinary traditions on earth, and relies heavily on the herbs, vegetables and meats naturally available in the islands, rather than on cultivated crops.

Fortunately, most of what we regard as culinary herbs in the Western world can be found growing in profusion on hillsides and even along the sides of the road in Greece. The Aegean sea abounds with some of the world's finest seafood and the abundant olive groves give rise to Greek olive oil, which is renowned for its flavor and color.

Did you know that civil servants in Greece get paid leave in November to return to their villages to help in the olive harvest? That's how seriously the Greeks take their olive oil. You'll find it used in almost every dish, mixed with herbs to dip bread in and even used in skin creams and various medicinal applications.

In fact, according to one Greek legend, a rebellious and recalcitrant wife was rubbed with olive oil each day for seven days. On the eighth day, she became more docile and receptive to her husband.

Gentlemen, I am NOT responsible for grievous injuries you may sustain while either attempting that technique or suggesting to your better half that it might be necessary.

One influence on Greek food that is often overlooked is the climate: it's HOT. Greek cuisine abounds with salads, cheeses and dishes that are either composed entirely of raw/pickled ingredients or do not require a great deal of time to cook. Grilled meats and vegetables are popular.

That's not to say that there's no complexity to Greek cooking. The use of fresh herbs and different flavoring methods is honed to a fine degree, and simple-seeming dishes such as stews and soups are comprised of a variety of ingredients and possessed of a balance of tastes that come from the long history of the cuisine.

You won't find meat-heavy dishes featured prominently on the traditional Greek menu, as space limitations have until recent decades prevented the widespread keeping of large herds of meat animals. Even the Aegean seafood, while high in quality, is not in tremendous abundance.

What that means, though, is that when meat IS served, it's done right. Everything is seasoned to perfection, and prepared with an eye toward becoming a harmonious part of the entire meal, rather than the centerpiece.

Of course, what is food without drink? One of the first libations to come to mind when one thinks of Greece is ouzo, a licorice-tasting liquor (usually 80 to 90 proof) most famously from the island of Lesvos. Traditionally, it is drunk while one consumes a plate of mezedes, appetizers or snacks which can range from salads to cheeses to bits of meat. The trick is to balance the eating and drinking so that you don't become too intoxicated.

Ouzo is usually mixed with water before drinking. A Greek taverna owner once told me the secret is to add more water as you drain your glass, thus thinning the mixture and counteracting the dehydrating effects of the alcohol. The idea is to avoid an ouzo hangover, which can be truly earthshattering in its potency.

For those looking for a potable with a little less punch, Greek wines are abundant and highly drinkable. The most famous is, of course, retsina -- an ancient tipple that traces its piney flavor to the time when wines were shipped in pine pitch-sealed vessels. Retsina is definitely an acquired taste, and I'll confess it's not one that has gained favor with my tastebuds over the years. However, the Greek Isles produce an abundance of other reds and whites that will complement your repast perfectly.

Perhaps most important to your Greek feast will be getting into the proper mindset. You will not often find the standard American 20-minute "bolt down your food and get back to work" meal. Instead, meals are taken slowly, with plentiful conversation and libation in between courses. The food, while delicious, is not the center of attention. Rather, it is there to fuel the conversation and camaraderie among the diners. I've had Greek lunches that lasted until dinnertime, and dinners that became an evening event in and of themselves.

When food is this good, bolting it down is nothing short of criminal; and not enjoying it with the proper drinks and good company is just as bad.

So invite some friends over, grab a cookbook (or call your local Greek joint for takeout), crack open the ouzo and enjoy!



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