In search of new and interesting restaurants, I often wander around newly constructed shopping centers and office parks, seeking those tenants with a culinary bent.

Imagine my delight as I meandered through the Toringdon Office Park behind the Earth Fare supermarket off Johnston and North Community House roads in south Charlotte and happened upon Global Restaurant. Open just four months now, Global already has people talking and they are saying good things; albeit, the first thing people talk about when mentioning Global is the location. Chef and owner Bernard Brunet and his wife, Shannon, could be considered front-runners in the Toringdon complex, filling a back corner in a mostly yetto- be-occupied office building. But it won’t be long before the buildings are filled. The route through the complex is well marked; signs posted at each turn will get you to Global in no time.

Global, a combination restaurant, bar and lounge, is small and chic. Charming black wrought-iron tables dressed with Mediterranean-blue napkins spot the patio outside. Interiors are modern yet warm and welcoming, dressed with rich Mediterranean blue and warm mustard- colored walls. Appointments suit the style with contrasting oversized, stark black chairs; linen tablecloths and napkins; distinctive square glass and china plates; copper-plated wall sculptures and contemporary lighting. Even at first glance, the attention to detail is evident.

The love boat
Brunet is a Frenchman, born and raised in Nice. He met Shannon while working for Commodore Cruise Line – he was the chef, she a singer, dancer and social coordinator for guest services and functions. Together the two traveled the world. When the couple decided to settle in Charlotte, not far from Shannon’s hometown of Boone, they had the idea to open a restaurant offering an array of intercontinental flavor.

While Brunet’s background is French, the cuisine at Global is international. Appetizers, salads, soup and entrées are offered with flavors from around the world: India, Haiti, Japan, Greece, Italy, Spain, France and even North and South Carolina.

From among the list of starters, don’t miss the shrimp “oooh la la,” a delicious offering of tender flash-fried shrimp tossed in a sweet-and-sour papaya vinaigrette – a wonderful way to begin and one of my favorite dishes at Global. For another great start, try the Brie and pear quesadilla. This one sounded rather pedestrian to me at first, but we ordered it anyway. Presented in a martini glass, the combination of sweet pears with savory Brie was a delicious and unexpected surprise.

I also liked the flavor of the crab cakes. While the texture was not as crisp as I would have liked, the two goodsized cakes were served on a bed of wilted greens and topped with Brunet’s creamy beurre blanc. This execution is typical of how Brunet takes dishes and flavors from all over the world and finishes them with a French flair. Love crab, but not intrigued by the crab cakes? Go for the she-crab soup. Dressed tableside with just a drizzle of sherry, the broth here is rich, full and fabulous. It left me wanting more.

For a lighter start, I found two good ways to go. The endive salad is served with Danish blue cheese, pecans, tomatoes, chives and apple and an interesting almond vinaigrette. Also delightful is the smoked salmon timbale, which Brunet stuffs with feta cheese, cucumber, wild and white rice and a fresh herb dressing.

Although Global’s dinner menu carries several pastas, including a squid ink risotto I am eager to try, so far I’ve been more tempted by other entrées. For my first dinner at Global, I ordered the braised lamb shank for my main course. The recipe hails from Brunet’s homeland and he does it well. The shank is cooked until the flavorful meat falls off the bones. It’s served atop orzo pasta with a lavender-rosemary lamb sauce. Seasonal vegetables come on the side.

While tempted by the risotto at my second visit, I opted for the minty eggplant burrito. It was incredible – a dish I will most definitely order again. The burrito features a soft flour tortilla stuffed with spicy, tender baked eggplant, folded into a neat package and served with subtle cumin-spiked tomato sauce.

I thought the weakest link at Global was the seafood entrées, although I have chatted with many Global fans who disagree. While some swear by the tuna with orange pepper and a fresh pineapple-cilantro salsa, the red snapper drizzled with orange glaze or the mahi mahi topped with a watermelonmint salsa, I found all three to have too many flavors on the plate, taking away from the taste of the fish itself. In all fairness, I have not tried the escolar, pan-seared and finished with a pink peppercorn and fresh basil sauce, so I’ll have to get back to you on that one. I do find it appealing, though, that the Global menu has something for everyone.

Shannon’s favorite is the pork chop, roasted in a beer sauce and served with mashed potatoes and braised red and white cabbage. While Brunet himself was hardpressed to tell me his favorite dish, he did say that he enjoys the lamb tenderloin, seared and served with a spiced baked eggplant and drizzled with a cumin lamb reduction. With flavors similar to my eggplant burrito, it sounds like a winner as well.

Final finishes
Whatever you eat at Global, save room for dessert. Beautifully presented, as was all the fare at Global, were creations such as a trio of mocha, vanilla and chocolate crème brulée; strawberries and pineapple flambéed with Grand Marnier; a raspberry and lemon mousse layered on rounds of light pound cake; and a warm chocolate cake with a melted center and Swiss chocolate ganache topping – a fine way to finish. Global also offers a host of after-dinner drinks, cognacs and liqueurs as well as a full bar and well-priced wine list.

At Global, the dining room and adjacent bar and lounge are all no-smoking areas. Music is soft and fitting for the small space. On Friday nights, Global will host live entertainment in the lounge with Greg James on keyboards and Shannon on vocals.

In addition to serving dinner six nights a week and lunch during the weekdays, Global also hosts occasional special wine and beer events. For details, call the restaurant at 704-248-0866.

Well-known Charlotte restaurant critic, food writer, cooking instructor and connoisseur of food and wine, Heidi Edidin writes "The Charlotte Weekly: Culinary Corner," a restaurant review or food feature that appears weekly. Contact Heidi with questions and restaurant, food or story ideas by email at heidi@thecharlotteweekly.com.

This article first appeared in "The Charlotte Weekly" on October 20, 2006. "The Charlotte Weekly" is a free, locally owned, independent newspaper that's "About the Community, For the Community," available every Thursday in North and South Charlotte and Uptown.

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