Despite presumptions about what a subdued French-Italian bistro in Charlotte’s high-end Eastover neighborhood might be, diners will find nothing pretentious about the food or atmosphere at Terra. Located next to Starbucks on Providence Road, this little jewel is an oasis of charming, quiet interiors, beautifully presented fine food and drink and impeccable service. It’s a winning combination.

Antipasto tops the list
To begin an evening at Terra, try a top-notch appetizer such as the paté en croute au porto. The golden brown puff pastry, served as a neat package rather than the typical slice, is filled with a sauté of ground beef and mushrooms and surrounded by a ruby Port reduction. The result is delicious, and leftovers are equally good the next day. Two additional starters that rate high on my list are the tender calamari, lightly fried and served with a roasted tomato aioli for dipping, and the mozzarella and prosciutto – a simple plate of fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced prosciutto and roasted red peppers dressed with basil and extra virgin olive oil. Team any of these dishes with a soup or salad for a meal in itself.

Less enchanting was the foie gras, a dish I always order and normally love. Terra’s execution at this dinner was simply too unctuous; I was disappointed with the harsh flavor and the small portion, although I enjoyed the tasty potato pancake on which the foie gras was served.

Despite the foie gras faux pas, two other dishes on the list – moules frites and the carpaccio – have become fast favorites. The former is a traditional pairing of steamed mussels with a side of hand-cut french fries. In Terra’s version, the sweet, tender mollusks are prepared and served in a delicious sauce of white wine, tomatoes and herbs, with hot, crispy fries providing the perfect complement of texture and taste. As good as the mussels are, the carpaccio du jour may be my favorite way to start an evening at Terra.

Classically defined as “thin shavings of raw beef drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice,” carpaccio is a standard on most upscale dinner menus around town. Terra’s unique take offers new dimension to the concept: a different meat, seafood or vegetable each night – sometimes cooked, sometimes raw, always thinly sliced and quite flavorful. Daily selections have featured salmon, beef, scallops, lamb and eggplant, but top honors go to the octopus. First marinated, seared, and then tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, the octopus is frozen and finally thin-sliced for serving. Each bite has a melt-in-your-mouth consistency that makes this carpaccio du jour my new favorite dish for summer.

Also quite nice for the season are two lovely salads: endive with Roquefort cheese, walnuts and poached pear; and baby arugula with warm goat cheese and a homemade roasted-shallot vinaigrette.

Mainstream
Terra features a short list of main courses with something for every palate. Pastas are delightful – a rich veal and mushroom ravioli; a linguine with fresh seafood; and a delicious risotto, made with asparagus, sweet corn, cheese and a homemade cheese and herb sausage. As the summer arrives, look for the risotto to change by the day, giving the chef a chance to play with the season’s freshest flavors as they become available.

For heartier appetites, try the salmon au beurre rouge, a filet of salmon poached in red wine and served with caramelized shallots; the cotes d’agneaux aux poireaux, or lamb chops with a wonderful braised lamb cannelloni served atop a bed of leek fondue; a fresh fish of the day; bistecca trevisana, or grilled marinated strip steak; and the grilled veal chop served with a white bean ragout.

Happy endings
Don’t feel compelled to dash off after the dinner dishes have cleared. The bar at Terra offers a variety of liqueurs, afterdinner drinks and French dessert wines, so take some time to linger – the environment encourages it. A soft color combination of teal, black and white and subtle room dividers of frosted glass and mirrors create a calm, secluded atmosphere for Terra’s small dining room. Frosted glass on the front windows helps to dim the otherwise harsh glare of headlights from Providence Road.

After the meal, diners can relax in the serene, comfortable space with a cup of coffee or espresso and one of several desserts, all crafted in-house. We made our selections from a list of crème brûlée, chocolate mousse, tiramisu, homemade sorbet and a classic French apple tart. When in doubt, I always go with chocolate – and the mousse, served with thin, homemade butter cookies, did not disappoint.

Dreams come true
Terra is the embodiment of a longtime culinary vision of owner Thierry Garçonnet. “It’s just taken me a while to save up the money and find the right place,” said Garçonnet.

Many Charlotte Weekly readers will recognize Garçonnet; the Parisian transplant has been in Charlotte since the late 1980s and over the years has worked as a professional waiter in many of the city’s finest dining establishments, from Barrington’s to Zebra. When Garçonnet first came to the area, Charlotte was in its culinary infancy. He has witnessed the city’s growth through many dining trends and wanted to add his own vision to her culinary horizon.

After 20 years in this country, Garçonnet describes himself, in a heavy but charming French accent, as “mostly Charlottean now” but admittedly still misses Paris. “Since I came here, I’ve wanted to open a little bistro like the ones we had back home,” he explained. “Now that I have a place, my goal is for the food here (at Terra) to be a good blend of highquality yet simple ingredients and impeccable preparation.

“I want the food to speak for itself, for flavors to be guided by the season, to offer a memorable and relaxing evening to our customers,” Garçonnet continued.

To that end, the concept at Terra works. The menu is solid. Garçonnet’s vision and his knowledge of food and wine, teamed with the talent of chef Chad Beckerink in the kitchen, make Terra’s mix of French and Italian bistro favorites a fresh and flavorful find.

Well-known Charlotte restaurant critic, food writer, cooking instructor and connoisseur of food and wine, Heidi Billotto writes "The Charlotte Weekly: Culinary Corner," a restaurant review or food feature that appears weekly. Contact Heidi with questions and restaurant, food or story ideas by email at heidi@thecharlotteweekly.com.

This article first appeared in "The Charlotte Weekly" on April 27, 2007. "The Charlotte Weekly" is a free, locally owned, independent newspaper that's "About the Community, For the Community," available every Thursday in North and South Charlotte and Uptown.

Copyright 2007 by The Charlotte Weekly and WSOCTV.com. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.