Vinnie’s Sardine Grill & Raw Bar

With four locations in Charlotte, Vinnie’s Sardine Grill & Raw Bar is a great place for consistently good food and exceptional service. Open since 1993 and locally owned by partners Britton McCorkle and Rad Bennett, the original Vinnie’s is on South Boulevard. The Matthews location opened 10 years ago and the Lake Norman and Mountain Island Lake locations followed about five years ago.

Great grouper, wonderful wings
A strong management team makes the fare and service at all locations consistent, evidenced by the fact that customers continue to return, no matter the locale. Food is simple but good, and favorites include Alaska king or snow crab legs, raw oysters, shrimp selections, wings and the ever-popular grouper sandwiches. “Aside from the nightly beer specials, the blackened grouper sandwich is probably the most popular item on the menu,” said Richard Morris, manager of the Vinnie’s in Matthews.

Paired with a side of fresh, hot steak fries, the grouper sandwich is certainly this reviewer’s top choice for lunch and an occasional dinner, too. Proclaimed on the menu as “the most popular fish sandwich of the year,” the grouper sandwich consists of a large, tender grouper fillet, almost twice as big as the bun on which it arrives, served blackened, grilled or fried.

While the blackened choice packs more flavor, the fried fillet has a nice crispy crunch and lacks the greasy mess. Shredded iceberg lettuce and a slice of tomato are the standard add-ons, while a pickle on the side rounds out the plate. Customers may request the addition of grilled onions, peppers, mushrooms or bacon. The grouper comes, as do all of Vinnie’s sandwiches, with a choice of sides. Although the coleslaw and the onion rings are both good, don’t miss the fries.

For days when one cannot live by fries and grouper sandwiches alone, try the Buffalo wings. Served as an appetizer, the basket of a dozen pieces is plenty for a meal. While the wings are not incredibly spicy, they are saucy and scrumptious. Keep the roll of paper towels provided on the table nearby, because this is finger food for sure. Served with the traditional condiments of blue-cheese dressing and celery sticks, the wings are lightly fried and then sauced. Popular Vinnie’s wing varieties include the Barbalo wings, fried and then coated with a zesty barbecue sauce, and the teriyaki wings, prepared in a similar manner. Vinnie’s also offers wings seasoned with a spiced, dry rub, a variety that seems to be gaining popularity.

Other worthwhile menu items include the fried calamari appetizer, fresh shucked oysters and steamed shrimp, all served with wonderful homemade cocktail sauce, and the salt-and-pepper catfish basket. The basket, like other fried fish combinations at Vinnie’s, includes sides of slaw, corn on the cob and fries. Portions are generous, so come hungry. The steaks at Vinnie’s don’t do much for me, but the burgers are delicious. The veggie burger is studded with black beans. The yellowfin tuna sandwich, offered grilled or blackened, is a nice alternative, as is the fried oyster po’ boy, served stuffed with shredded lettuce and tomatoes. Po’ boys also come with shrimp, catfish or chicken, but none of these selections are as delectable as the grouper.

The service at Vinnie’s is spot-on, fast and efficient. Turnaround time is quick for those with a limited lunch hour and the wait for a drink refill is practically nonexistent. Aside from dining at any of the four locations across the city, Vinnie’s brings tasty oyster roasts and crab or shrimp boils directly to customers. They provide it all – cooking onsite and making entertaining easy.

Smoke in your eyes
In addition to all the good food and fast service at Vinnie’s, the bar is a big part of the place’s attraction. The smoking section accounts for more than half of the restaurant, including a portion of the dining area, the bar and all of the patio area. Pipes and cigars are allowed on the patio as well, which makes dining out-of-doors at Vinnie’s a nonviable option for me.

For many nonsmokers, the hazy atmosphere at Vinnie’s takes away from the taste of the food. Even during the day, when the bar isn’t quite as crowded, the smell of smoke lingers. If the smoke is really bothersome, don’t give up on Vinnie’s all together – takeout is a great option. Orders may be called in ahead or placed onsite.

Well-known Charlotte restaurant critic, food writer, cooking instructor and connoisseur of food and wine, Heidi Billotto writes "The Charlotte Weekly: Culinary Corner," a restaurant review or food feature that appears weekly. Contact Heidi with questions and restaurant, food or story ideas by email at heidi@thecharlotteweekly.com.

This article first appeared in "The Charlotte Weekly" on May 25, 2007. "The Charlotte Weekly" is a free, locally owned, independent newspaper that's "About the Community, For the Community," available every Thursday in North and South Charlotte and Uptown.

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