Appetizers like the Carpaccio Di Filetto Con Insalatina Di Rucola are a wonderful way to start your dinner at Luce Ristorante.

LUCE RISTORANTE e BAR Location: 214 N. Tryon St. Just off the Hearst Tower Plaza Phone: 704-344-9222 Fax: 704-344-9909 Details: Exclusively Italian wine list (don't be afraid to ask for help); 12 wines by the glass; $15 corkage fee; separate bar area; seasonal menu; reservations accepted; parking accessible off Sixth Street; validated parking for Hearst Tower deck; in-season patio dining; catering service available; takeout. Prices: Luncheon items range from $8-$11. Dinner entrees range from $17-$30. Hours: Lunch: Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner: Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10:00 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30-11:00 p.m.

Luce is the newest and currently hottest dining spot Uptown. Located in the new Hearst Tower, it is the culinary child of owner Augusto Conte and the sister restaurant of the popular Toscana Ristorante at Specialty Shops on the Park.

Conte came to Charlotte from Connecticut in 1995. In those seven years, he has made his mark on the Queen City by treating Charlotteans to the fine food and wine of his homeland in several upscale Italian restaurants.

It all began in March of '95 when he and his wife, Christine, opened Conte's beside what was then the Fresh Market on Selwyn Avenue. Their first child Ariana was just a baby, and Augusto and Christine began to plant roots here in Charlotte. In 1997 they opened Trattoria Rustica on East Boulevard, followed in '98 by the opening of Toscana at Specialty Shops on the Park in the SouthPark area. When Toscana opened, Conte's closed so that Augusto could divide his time between the other two restaurants. When Latta Pavilion bought out the East Boulevard location, Trattoria was forced to close, too, and Conte turned his attention to the Uptown business district. After operating exclusively in South Charlotte, Conte is pleased about moving Uptown.

"It's been a very good two months. We've had a great response from the banks and hotels and a lot of enthusiasm and support from the residents of the Uptown neighborhoods," said Conte, who views the growth spurt Uptown as a positive force and is happy to be part of the excitement. In the meantime, he doesn't plan to change anything about Toscana. "I work with two very good managers, and I just go back and forth." As his business ventures have grown, his family has grown as well. Four restaurants and three children later, these past seven years have proved to be busy.

Success that comes with hard work makes it all worthwhile. If the crowds Uptown are any indication, Luce's long-term success seems inevitable. Luce seats 70 in the dining room, and warm weather will mean 40 additional patio seats for dining al fresco. Meanwhile, comfortable interiors greet diners with a taste of Italian food and art. Katherine Alexander worked with Conte on the interior design, which features hand-blown glass lights imported from Venice, framed Ben Long sketches on the walls and a large, stretch fabric silk screen imported from Paris on the ceiling. It's a touch of the Renaissance on North Tryon. A combination of modern and classic design, combined with fine food, wonderful wines and superlative service run under the direction of manager David Weil.

Although Luce's dining room may be small, the portions that come out of the kitchen, headed by executive chef Robert Graham, are generous.

RATING SCALE Excellent, a must try. Above average, worth consideration. Average, but nothing spectacular. Just okay. Poor, not recommended.

From Start To Finish
Appetizers and pastas could fill you up in a heartbeat and are all quite wonderful. Favorites to start include a Spiedino Di Gamberi, or grilled shrimp atop a bed of creamy green lentils served with fried leeks and scampi butter. The shrimp here are large and surprisingly sweet and tender. The Carpaccio Di Filetto Con Insalatina Di Rucola is also very nice, if you'd like to start with a rare seared beef tenderloin. The beef is sliced paper thin, served with a bed of peppery arugula topped with shaved Reggiano Parmesano and dressed with a drizzle of basil and chili oils. Luce runs frequent specials and the one friends and I have deemed "don't miss" is the beet and blood orange salad. Thin-sliced cold roasted beets form the base, crowned by a layer of dark peach, blood orange sections, a mound of watercress and a soft warm topping of herbed goat cheese. It is a spectacular presentation and equally as good to eat.

Pastas are the next course. Do try the Ravioli Al Sogu Antico. This handmade pillow pasta is stuffed with braised veal shank and Cacciota cheese and served al dente atop a warm roasted eggplant and plum tomato sauce. Each bite simply melts in your mouth. The gnocchi is another spectacular offering. Homemade and light as a feather, these small potato dumplings are served in a casserole baked in a sauce of forest mushrooms and braised rabbit. The Penne Arrabiatta, a rolled penne pasta served in a red pepper flaked tomato sauce and the Papardelle Bolognese, handmade ribbon pasta served with a meat sauce, are two Italian classics, both well done.

As for entrees, eight menu selections and several specials are offered nightly. Truth be told, we've been so taken with the appetizers and pastas that the entrees have taken a back seat to the first two courses. That said, though, the Mattonell Di Tonno, a grilled tuna steak served with eggplant caponata and arugula mashed potatoes was served perfectly rare and proved to be a nice combination of flavors on the plate. The Osso Buco Alla Milanese, or braised veal shank, was nice but heavy. The Milanese sauce was a bit on the sweet side and served with saffron Israeli Couscous, steamed Rapini and gremolata sauce, just seemed to have too much going on. In contrast, the Maiale e Salvia, a lemon and sage pork tenderloin served with butternut squash orzo and braised Swiss chard, was also a large portion but somehow a better combination of flavor. We also enjoyed a grilled whole sea bass, filleted tableside and served as a special. The flavor was soft and sweet, combined with well done but uncomplicated roasted potatoes and fresh asparagus. The tableside deboning made for a nice added touch of service.

Desserts include a classic tiramisu and crunchy chocolate-dipped stuffed cannoli, but after all the food that proceeded, the homemade sorbet provided the finest finish.

One of the "don't miss" specials at Luce is the beet and blood orange salad - a feast for the eyes as well as the palate.

Well-known Charlotte restaurant critic, food writer, cooking instructor and connoisseur of food and wine, Heidi Edidin writes "South Charlotte Weekly: Culinary Corner," a restaurant review or food feature that appears weekly. Contact Heidi with questions and restaurant, food or story ideas by email at heidi@southcharlotteweekly.com.

SCW photos by Sean Busher.

This article first appeared in "South Charlotte Weekly" on February 14, 2003. "South Charlotte Weekly" is a free, locally owned, independent newspaper that's "About the Community, For the Community," available every Thursday in South Charlotte and Uptown.

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