The flavors of "N'Awlins" come in the guise of Cajun Yard Dog's Cajun meatloaf served with a spicy tomato gravy and two sides.

CAJUN YARD DOG , Location: 8036 Providence Road in the Arboretum Phone: 704-752-1750 Details: Beer and wine; takeout; weekend entertainment, 6:30-9:30 p.m.; T-shirts and gift certificates also available. Prices: Dinner entrees range from $7-$17. Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

If you're still reeling from Mardi Gras and craving Cajun and Creole cuisine to soothe your soul, head to the Cajun Yard Dog at the Arboretum for a sweet and simple taste of The Big Easy.

Owned and operated by Chef Chris Edwards and his wife, Sue, the Cajun Yard Dog is open for both lunch and dinner. While Sue runs the front of the house, Chris takes the helm back in the kitchen. Standard course of events, you might think, but what makes this dynamic duo a bit different from other chef-owned and operated establishments is that the couple also does the same for another restaurant, Dakota's.

A more upscale dining establishment also at the Arboretum, Dakota's is across the parking lot from Cajun Yard Dog. Chris and Sue split their time between both restaurants, cooking up fine fare along the way.

Originally there was just Dakota's, then located in the space now occupied by Cajun Yard Dog. "It started off as a pretty casual place," Chris said. "Then as Dakota's popularity increased, the level of the food became a bit more upscale." Realizing the need for more space, Edwards moved Dakota's to larger, slightly more formal digs two years ago and reworked the menu to feature a more sophisticated Southern fare.

Cajun Yard Dog opened after the Dakota's move, two years ago this June. After a bit of remodeling in the original space, Edwards kept the popular basics from the Dakota's menu, adding Cajun and Creole features. "I've always loved New Orleans," he said. "When I started to cook, the stuff Paul Prudhomme was doing was very popular. It's had its influences on the way I cook." The Louisiana born and bred Prudhomme is the chef who originated the recipe for Blackened Redfish, and through his New Orleans restaurant K-Paul's and a host of cookbooks and TV appearances, drew worldwide attention to the flavors of Cajun and Creole cuisines. Luckily for us, Edwards was listening.

RATING SCALE Excellent, a must try. Above average, worth consideration. Average, but nothing spectacular. Just okay. Poor, not recommended.

Cases in point: featured on the Cajun Yard Dog menu is a knock-your-socks off Chicken and Andouille Gumbo - not so very hot and spicy, although you could make it more so if you want - just a fabulous bowl full of flavor. Other starters include crispy fried oysters with cocktail sauce, delicious catfish bites with a zippy jalapeño tartar sauce and an ever-popular spicy spinach and artichoke dip. The dip was good, but ordinary in comparison to the outstanding catfish, oysters and gumbo. There are also spicy crawfish patties on the menu as well as a seafood stuffed mushroom with a smooth and creamy tasso gravy. Know that these last two offerings are rich and filling, so, pace yourself if you're moving on to the entrees.

Dinner entrees include an assortment of home-cooked specials. There's lots of seafood - blackened salmon, grouper and mahi-mahi served on a platter, as well as your choice of shrimp, catfish or oysters cooked to order any way you like them. There's also Shrimp Creole, a fine shrimp or crawfish etouffee, and as one might expect, tasty red beans and rice. They're all good, but my favorite Cajun Yard Dog dinner is the meatloaf. It's done up Cajun style - a mix of beef and pork topped with a tomato gravy and served, as are the seafood platters, with two sides.

Sides, just to name a few, include wonderfully creamy grits, Southern smothered cabbage, crispy fried okra, chunky smashed potatoes and squash or broccoli casserole.

Po' boys are on both the dinner and lunch menus. This is the classic Cajun sandwich featuring fried oysters, shrimp or catfish, as well as any of the blackened seafoods, on a toasted baguette with lettuce and tomato, dressed with a delicious rémoulade and served with fries on the side.

As great as the starters and entrees are, it's the desserts that make me want to stand up and shout. Pastry Chef Jason Lemon, who has been with Edwards since the beginning, bakes like nobody's business. Try the bread pudding, chocolate brownie sundae and the pecan pie - in fact, go to dinner with friends and try them all. You'll be glad you did.

When Lemon is not making desserts for both Cajun Yard Dog and Dakota's, he's either waiting tables as part of the fabulous staff at Cajun Yard Dog or, if it's a Friday or Saturday night, he might be providing the entertainment with his band, Benjamin Circle. Pat Walker and Steve Stockel from The Spongetones also appear on a regular basis.

One of the scrumptious desserts at Arboretum's Cajun Yard Dog is the classic bread pudding.

Well-known Charlotte restaurant critic, food writer, cooking instructor and connoisseur of food and wine, Heidi Edidin writes "South Charlotte Weekly: Culinary Corner," a restaurant review or food feature that appears weekly. Contact Heidi with questions and restaurant, food or story ideas by email at heidi@southcharlotteweekly.com.

SCW photos by Sean Busher.

This article first appeared in "South Charlotte Weekly" on March 21, 2003. "South Charlotte Weekly" is a free, locally owned, independent newspaper that's "About the Community, For the Community," available every Thursday in South Charlotte and Uptown.

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